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MAKING MY
OWN MODEL KITS
Testors Decal Maker Software Download Pc
DECALS
Testors Decal Maker Software Download
by John Mansolas - March 2009
This page will tell you how to design and produceyour own decals for your model kits . I reveal here theexperience I got via experimentation which lead me to the point to be able toreproduce almost everything in this domain. Definitely and old model kit freakfor static aircraft models since 40 years I was forced to discover this hobby accidentally, when cheated by people to whom I ordered and paid special decals for my kits.Of course my previous experience with 2D aircraft profile making was anadvantage as I was familiar with design software. Then I explored the blankdecal paper domain where I learned again the hard way. Last but not least Ilearned to produce faithful color prints with laser printers. Well if you manageall that then be sure you have done 98% of your way to .perfection
THE REASONS WHY
Now why one should ever bother do that ? Well , I havediscovered 7 main reasons for it , which are the following ones :
- You can not find those very personalized ones you want to do . A model is something of your own choice , part of your own motivation and you mean to do this particular model you have into your mind with those particular decals
- You may find similar ones but you cannot get them at the scale of the model you make
- They are at times lousy and old with some rare vintage kits and worth only throwing them away.
- They are often expensive - at times very expensive - and if one is destroyed you have to buy them again
- You can reproduce them as many times as you like or correct them re-edit and reprint them
- You may be cheated , as I had , if sold to you by someone else . Once I ordered them , I paid for them and the guy simply forgot me for ever. Another one produced them on a wrong paper type and never cared to replace them . Overall I have lost in this business something like more than 300 dollars and when at wits end .I decided to learn how to do it myself
- Although rare , however it happened to me twice : decals bought by a famous model shop where wrong for the scale and became useless for my model
THE PRINTER
You should only use a LASER PRINTER basedon 4-color toners of YMCB or Yellow, Magenta , Cyan andBlack. Although some peopleadvertise ways to produce ink jet decals I found out that these are simplyimpossible to survive water even if covered by special liquids that aresupposedly made to protect them. That , expensive stuff , never worked with me .On the contrary I never had to do anything additional to those printed withLaser Printers. The color there burns deeply the thin film layer of the decalpaper and penetrates into its pores so that it finally stays unharmed even ifleft for too much time in the water - I tried one for about 1 day with absolutesuccess !!
Before you tell me that a laser printer is expensive , Isay this : Do you have a friend who has one and will let you use it? If so , don't bother for the money.
If you have to buy one then now there is a solution and itis called SAMSUNG CLP-315 , available inmost countries at a price ranging from 120 to 190 euros ( I bought it for 150) it is the smallest , cheapest and effective for the job .
SAMSUNG CLP-315
Despite some hard - at times horrible - comments in someweb pages by 'experts' , I tried it with a friend who has bought one forhis normal color printing. I discovered that all comments were biased and mostof them untrue to the bone ! After having done some experimentation I rushed tobuy one and I'm pleased for my choice . As with all laser printers the ink isthe most expensive part , but .wait a minute ! Which is the printer that doesnot cost as much or even less than the ink you pay to replace ? The four tonersof the SAMSUNG CLP-315 cost me around 140-160 euros but even a normal inkjet printer on the market that is sold around 60-70 euros needs cartridges thatcost around 40 euros . Luckily the SAMSUNG CLP-315 is priced far below the 600+euro range
SAMSUNG CLP-315 openedto see the emplacement of the 4-color cartridges
You know , with your personal decals you are more thandemanding . The only limitation is that with laser printers ,of all kinds , somelight colors are printed at a bit lower strength. Even with commercial decalsthe case is similar and at times even worse. This you may either accept as is or, why not , correct accordingly with your software after some trials . Thedesign software has easy ways of changing any colors to any strength thusovercoming the printer quality shortcomings
THE PAPER
Hmmm. Believe it or not the blank paper on which you haveto print your decals is rather rare on the market. I have found so far only 2sources for it, one in UK from a special modelers shop and the other in US. Forsome reason the first one sells limited quantities and at a double price thanthe US guy. The US guy sells plenty of them on-line and half the price incomparison ! So try this link to Tango-Papa Decals: http://www.tangopapadecals.com/and particularly on the order page : http://www.tangopapadecals.com/prod01.htmfor decal paper where you'll see this :
Pricing
Clear Decal Paper | Price per sheet | White Decal Paper | Price per sheet |
|---|---|---|---|
Letter size (8.5' x 11') | $1.00 | Letter size (8.5' x 11') | $1.00 |
Legal size (8.5' x 14') | $1.00 | Legal size (8.5' x 14') | $1.00 |
A4 (8.25' x 11.75') | $1.00 | A4 (8.25' x 11.75') | $1.00 |
BE SURE TO SPECIFY SIZE WHENORDERING - if not specified we will send letter size
Minimum order is 30 sheets(combined total)
Also Available: SAMPLER PACK- 4 sheets/letter size - $8.50 (US shipping included)
For HighQuantity Users
500 to 2000 Sheets | $0.75 per sheet plus shipping |
|---|
Full Ream of Clear Letter (2,000 sheets) | $900 plus shipping |
|---|
Shipping in United States
30 - 100 sheets letter | $7.50 |
|---|
Anyother quantity or size of paper ships by weight. Call or e-mail for rates.
Ordersover $150 must have postal insurance added. See AllShipping page.
Overseasshipping costs - call or e-mail for rates.
Ifyou have problems with our decal paper, we will replace it (up to 6 months fromdate of purchase).
Problempaper must be returned.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The guy so far has been proved extremely reliable and I'msatisfied with him. The most important choice here is to select the A4 onlypaper size. The US letter size does not properly fill the Samsung tray whilethe A4 is just the thing.
The next choice is ClearDecal Paper or White Decal Paper. The answer here ismore technical and you should consider the answer according to the followinghint you will read below :
LaserPrinters never print white !!
This is a bold statement, which you may have neverknown so far. Clear paper actually means Transparent , that is there is atransparent film where the decals will be printed on and when the backgroundpaper will be removed or separated after dipping intothe water the surrounding of the printed decal area remains simplytransparent. In case you put decals on a model paintedwhite ,as the case is usually with many airliners, you should only use thistype. The same goes for aircraft say of the US navy painted white or very lightgray.
| See the picture of the model to the left to get the idea. This AEGEAN Regional Jet in 1/144 scale (Revell) is all painted white above and light gray below. All the decals where printed on Clear Decal Paper and as you see they all contrast with the model's background. In areas where few white is necessary it is printed transparently by the printer on the decal but due to the white below that is complementing the loss of the white from the printer , there is nothing wrong at the end with the entire impression made. |
If however you want to produce , say white letters on adark blue model background you should remember that the white you put from yoursoftware to be printed will never appear ! Transparent will only be seenwhere you have put white to be printed.
You may of course try to paint previously on the model awhite area where the white is expected to appear while the rest of the decals isprinted around in the model's say dark blue as if you produce a masking effect.This can work albeit not in all cases and the need is of course to matchsuccessfully the decal all around color with the exact one on the model . Itried it successfully 2-3 times but you may do almost the same and even betterby using the White Decal Paper. Here, the background film where the decals will be printed is whiteand will print white where you designed so with the software. This white howeverwill stay there for the surrounding of the white numbers too unless you mask itaround with the exact model color. This ' exact 'color can be achieved with the software of course but in the worst of cases youmay use with a tiny brush the very same model paint after applying the decal .This work is not very difficult and works pretty well sometimes - you shouldonly remain cautious with your brush.
| See the picture of the model to the left to get the idea. This F4F Wildcat model in 1/48 (HobbyBoss) depicts the personal plane of Cpt John Thatch at the Battle of Midway with 3 kills , Felix the Cat ( his personal emblem ) and the white numbers 23 on the fuselage , large in middle and small aft . By the way until that time I had not yet applied the US star insignia, that's why they are missing for now. Since white can never come from the printer I had to use White Decal Paper for the white to appear. At the same time however I had to 'mask' the rest around the white of the decals with a color that was equal to the 'middle blue' of the model. You'll see later that whatever the color , you can match it with the software so never mind that I have used a non-standard mixture to achieve this middle US navy middle blue. Watch below the printed decal how it looks like before I put it on the model |
| I create a colored area of masking around each decal which I can later cut-down to what is a necessary minimum before applying. Preferably I cut as close as possible to the decal's periphery . I then correct if necessary with some model paint around it . On the contrary the black No 23 on the wings and the black strip walk-on strip were made on Clear Decal paper because as their color is black there is no need for any white color to appear , although , even so I could have used the same technique as the black is a color that is printed by the printer . In that case of course the white decal background is useless but even if used can still serve for the production of this particular decal |
To the right you see another one of my projects. This is a F9F-Panther jet scale 1/72. The model was taken from an old cheap Matchbox kit for the Blue Angels. I wanted however to create the plane depicted in the film 'The Bridges at Toko-Ri' , starring Wil. Holden as Lt Brew baker with this 209 , B group , VMF 192 plane. The model exists with Monogram in 1/.48 but there are no decals in the world for this scale. So I made them , all with White background and masked around with the dark sea blue equal to the the Revel paint SM350 enamel which I used for the model . |
| A similar job was done to honor my friend Col. Steve Sprios Pisanos the American Eagles and USAFace and at the same time my modelist friend Bill Bell from New Jersey. We both bought a P-47C from an old Revell kit in 1/32 and wanted to reproduce faithfully the 'Miss Plainfiled' Spiros was flying with. The decals are sold with Hannants for the 1/48 scale , except that they are wrong (!) as Spiros himself told us and provided us with the correct ones. These decals were of course very large so I dedicated one whole file for them and I printed it 3 times , the second one for Bill and the third for a friend of his who admires Spiros too . By the way I do not do a commercial business here , it is just between friends that I only do it and for free These decals are of course unique in the world and I'm proud of it . We also added the name of the pilot below the cockpit. Well.this did not exist in 1943 as such but .we can do whatever we want with OUR decals , No ? Much was the work of course with the nose art for 'Miss Plainfield' , it took me 2 days , but it did worth the effort The upper surface color used is the acrylic Tamiya XF-51 khaki green and lower surface the light gray Tamiya XF-19 |
So everything depends on what color backgrounds you'llneed and you order accordingly. In general both Clear and White decal papers mayhave to be used and that's why I usually order enough quantities of both .
THE SOFTWARE
And here we go to the most beautiful part of the art. Intheory any software that can finally print seems to do the job but for the needsof sophisticated decal making you need something with many options and tools . Iguess there is a variety out there of photo-printing stuff but if you ask menothing , or few , compares with the Paint Shop Proof Jasc software. I know there are a number of versions out but for simplicity and effectivenessreasons I use the Paint Shop Pro 5 .
It has all the advantages of a simpler version with themajority of the necessary tools needed. The official site of the company is :http://www.jasc.com but I think this ,rather old version , can be freely downloaded or is shareware. I found this linkfor free downloading : http://www.oldversion.com/download_Paint_Shop_Pro_5.0.html, as for me I have bought it since years ago ( somewhere in 1998 I think or evenbefore maybe ) . The present advanced version is the 11 and on this link you maydownload until version 9 but .I do suggest the 5 as the more simple for thedaily user
The main advantages and utilities needed for decals aremainly the :
- background paper size definition
- ruler to measure detailed distances
- image resizing and rotating at any angle
- area selection tools for rectangles , circles and point-to-point
- bitmap image area copy-paste
- user defined colors with the usual windows palette
- layering
I'm sure other similar products can do the same (CorelDraw , Illustrator ) but it is essential not to get lost with many otherfunctions that serve many other objectives such as photography effects etc
All my examples shown below are made with the PaintShop Pro 5 ( PSP5 ) .
DefinePSP5 preferences & A4 paper size for your paper
Upon choosing New File to create a new decal drawing fileyou are presented first with the option of the size of its background , likethis :
You should choose first the unit of measurement ,for me : centimeters , and then the background paper dimensionin centimeters or pixels. For A4 the centimeters is Width = 21 cmand Height=29,1 cm . The resolution 100 pixels/cm will show on a rulerpixel dimension in 2100 X 2910 . The background color is unimportant but the default white is OK forgeneral purposes and of course you have to go for an Image Type of 16.7 milcolors
Set the ruler by using the menu option View andcheck in the boxes for activating the Ruler - and you may like to addalso Grid
Then set on File > Preferencesthe number of Undos you may want to be able to do ( more is better thanless . I prefer at least 10 - the default 3 is insufficient ) and the amountof maximum RAM for an image - I usually try 30 Mb
For the time being ignore the checkered background you seeon this one (which stands for transparent - non color ) . Rather pay attention to the values indicated by the rulers andbecome familiar with measurements. Be careful : the zoom in/out affects thedetails you see on the ruler. In full size you get divisions every 200 but ifyou zoom in , in an area , you can get more and more . I have also given a nameto this file and can be anything you like . Now .shall we make a differentfile for each different model ? Although yes is a valid answer I'll tell you tothink otherwise . You rarely have so large decals that will cover an entire A4page unless you get very big models needing many decals. Normally you have manysmaller ones and trying to economize on decal paper you've better stuff togetheras many as possible. If this is the case you can collect 5 or 6 or even moredecal models in one file.
You'll see later that by using layers you'll be ableto introduce more individual pages to work for each model separately. Thishowever will make your memory very large until , if not careful , your RAM willsurprise you ! I usually make files up to some 10-15 Mb large but no more . Thenonly I start with a new file
The model details
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PART1 : Find profiles ,Pictures and Logos
We decide to do a VIKINGMD-90 from the Hasegawa scale 1/200kit. Start searching for profiles , pictures and logos. There are many thatcan be provided from existing kits (instructions page) , others that you getfrom friends or magazines or you may easily advise this rich link of 3D views ofprofiles on the internet :
http://richard.ferriere.free.fr/index.html
You may systematicallysearch for similar profiles and build up easily a library or some friends ofyours have done so
pages weidentify even nicer and better ones (there are always more than one usually)enough for our purposes . Even with copyrighted stuff we will not reproducepictures or modify them and say it is ours. We’ll only use part of them forguide lining material without even showing them.
Wefinally chose the picture below :
MD-90profile
You may consider to fill-inwith white all colored areas but this will not affect your final drawing asyou’ll use only the outline of this profile to put on your own decals. Youmay as well do a search for the picture of a Viking MD-90 which leads us to thispicture from Google :
VikingMD-90 picture
So will do this model with thepresent decals and registration . Tryalso to find the Viking Logo in Google which provides us with this picture :
VikingLogo
Fine ! An excellentpicture that will provide for all decal parts we need , notably the Viking headfor the tail and the Viking letters for the fuselage . Windows and doors we candirectly copy from the MD-90 profile or we may use our own artistic talents todesign them – it usually gives the same results especially for small sizedmodels
PART2 : Prepare a resized profile that suits your model size
Theprocedure is as follows :
Vegas pro 16 download mac. Open theMD-90 profile and cut down to the limits of the picture that correspond to thenose-to-tail distance using the selection tool , preferably the rectangular one
Thisarea you have to Select by using the Selection Tool withthe rectangular symbol . Keep always the Controls View openwhere it is indicated that you have used the rectangular shape to select (square, circle & ellipse are other option) .
You mayalso use on occasions the ‘lasso’ symbol below especially for Point to Pointor Freehand selection of certain detailed areas
The partof the picture thus selected will be this one below :
Use thecopy & paste tool in the Edit Menu selecting the Paste as New Image optionhere . We choose this option because we want to work and modify independentlythis picture . The other options integrate it without a possibility of changeafterwards
We’llget this result :
The present pictures measuressome dimension on the ruler where the nose-to-tail distance is something like635 pixels (never mind this number) . We want to use a profile where thisdistance will be the same as in our model. We measure it on the model to be 19,4cm and we thus decide that this makes Width = 1940 in pixels for our page
We then use the Image>Resizefrom the Menu of PSP5 , where we pay attention to keep checked the two boxes on thebottom for Maintain Aspect ratio and ResizeAll Layers , the usual default setting. That way the Height will becalculated automatically in the adjacent window. Same thing is if we knowexactly and we so set the Height , then the Width is calculated automatically.The principle is that
“if one distance is resized on scale then
everyother distance of the picture is accordingly resized to this scale ”
The newresized picture shows like this :
You check that the number1940 is verified by the ruler’s pixel indication as the width of this picture.Now that is a picture we can use atlast for our purpose and we can integrate it to our drawing page because it isthe correct size for our model
PART3 : Insert a layer with the profile & create other layers to work decals on
We open ,or we already have opened , both this picture and the basic A4 decal page wewill draw on . Be Careful here : Commands are passed from the same menu but todifferent pictures , the proper one you work on is indicated by ahighlighted Title-Bar on top- as with all Windows applications Be careful to make sure where you areworking at a time as we will often jump from one to another . If in error usethe Undo Option ( I do use it very often I am afraid ! )
Now willcopy the profile image and transfer it to the A4 decal page
Use the Edit>Copyfor the MD-90 profile image
and thenselect the A4 decal page and use the Edit>Paste>As New Layer option
Note: All selection and layer actions are terminated by right-clicking on the mouse
You’vebetter change the name of this layer to remember what this is ( a very goodprecaution for later on ). Use from menu Layer>Properties and let’s name itMD-90 profile .We alsointroduce a new different layer where we will draw the decals on ; use from menuthe Layer>New and name it , say VIKING
LayerControl
From now onthe layer control becomes too much important so let us highlight few things :
LayerControl > Order
You may seeon the Layer Tool these two layers we have .
By rightclicking on a layer’s label you may as well deleteor rename it – or even do someother changes not often used for decals though
Testors Decal Maker software, free download
You changetheir order by click + and + drag ontheir label up and down having into your mind that the decal layers should bealways above those used as profile guidelines. So the VIKING layer should bealways put above the corresponding MD-90 profile – not the other way round .That goes for all other layers you may use in the same page . Actually you mayuse one such file for many decals and profiles but eventually the RAM memorywill explode somewhere if you overdo it
LayerControl > View and Work with
This isvery important and mistakes are very often here. You have to click on a layerlabel to become active and have access on it to work . In this case this layer ,VIKING here , has a brighter color label than the others. This means that anywork done is actually affecting only this layer . You may work with only onelayer at a time
Theother layers are simply visible or not ( if you do not want to see them ) byclickingtheview on/off icon next to them . That way you may work on many different decalsand profiles but select to see only 2 layers at a time – or as many as youwould like to see or not see.
Ifyou want to deny access to any layer by fear of accidentally destroying theircontent after a clumsy input you may set / resetthe locker icon next to them
The slidernext may vary the transparency of the layer between 0 – 100% if you would liketo have a quick partial view below . This is not as useful ; you may use theview on/off instead if you want to check how a layer is matching the one belowor how it looks alone. But …does not harm to have it just in case , of course
Themost often mistake done here is to confuse the layer(s) you see with the onethat is actually active . So it might be you want to cut and paste from theVIKING layer but you have active the MD-90 profile layer. If so , you actuallydestroy the profile below without doing what you want on the VIKING layer. Ifyou are liable to this mistake for a long time then lock the layers you areafraid to destroy accidentally and the program will tell you that this actioncan not happen because the layer is not active , if you try anything on them,Unlocking them is so easy when you decide to
PART4 . Importing picture files onto the decal page
Fromour internet research we have saved the Viking Logo . We’ll use the Viking’shead for the tail plane decal – as in the full MD-90 picture of the true planewe have seen :
We have toopen this picture with the PSP5 as New Image and then measure on the profilethe size it should have , here 106 pixels
I zoom inproperly and I estimate this width distance in pixels to be 106. Now I return to the Viking’s head picture and I’ll resize it from whateverit is at the moment to a width = 106. Here of course you may ‘play’ with your own feelings about the real sizebut this will only vary the distances by some 10 % - rarely more .
And then Iwill import this picture to the A4 decal page . First I have to Edit> Copy this picture , then return to the A4 decal page and there Ido a Edit > Paste > As NewSelection.This paste is actually importing an outside image to another . I use my mousecursor to drag the Viking head where I want to.
At thispoint you may permanently get rid of all other intermediate picture files asfrom now on we’ll work only on the VIKING layer – until we input anotheritem from outside . Thisis the moment of some ‘perfection’ . While resizing and importing , detailsof the picture change or get degraded. PSP5 can help us here . Actually someexpert people can work miracles with PSP5 five but with small models much of thedetailed work passes unnoticed , so just be reasonable . Firstwe clear the surroundings by using the ‘Lasso’ selection tool and thendelete. Then we try to revive the colors and/or the resolution
The Brushtool can work like a pen and even down to a one single pixel level to correctdetails. The ‘Rubber’ tool can remove large or small details at any pixellevel .
The ‘Bucket’tool is used not only to fill-in with color but even to replace extendedwithered color areas of degraded resolution with an improved uniform coloring :just select the ‘bucket’ tool , select the new color and click on thoseareas wherever a change is needed. The ‘EyeDropper’ selects existing colors and can change them
In my caseI considered that the blue areas of the Viking head had to become a bit darkerso that they will contrast better so I used a slightly darker blue in the colorpalette and used the ‘bucket’ to revive the more pale original blue
Workingin the same spirit I imported the ‘VIKING’ letters from the logo and addedsome ‘perfection’ there too. Then I draw over the windows and doors based onthe MD-90 profile layer below . Use often to copy + paste to repeat a job : youare not supposed to make , say 40 windows , you just do a good one and you copypaste it 4-5 times then you copy – paste this group of 4-5 to make a largergroup etc.
Atthe end I added the Swedish flag imported and resized from one of the too manyyou may find on the internet . Then I created the letters of theregistration . Use the “A” icon tool to create text and try to usethe size that fits best to the limits of the MD-90 profile . Duplicate with copy+ paste all decals that will be used on the other side of the fuselage . Themenu option Image >Mirroris often useful in such - but not all - cases
Iend up with this VIKING Layer that contains all decals I need for my model
This cannow be printed ….however :
This is notmuch of a space to sacrifice a whole A4 decal paper page. It takes only some 5cm X 15 cm in all for this decal . This is why we've create another layer wherewe bring together and as close as possible many more decals for other models toutilize effectively most of our blank paper page . We copy + paste from thevarious layers to this one allocated for printing .
When ready:
we put a blank decal paper as the top page in the tray of the printer with the glossy printable surface looking up
we switch on the printer and on the Properties we select A4 Label paper , Fit to page and Graphics>Best then Advanced Option > Smart Color > Fine Edge
select on the PSP5 the layer with the decals to be printed as active - printer prints only the active layer at each time
wait about 20 seconds and the page is coming out printed
cut the decals as close as possible to their printed area
put much water drops on the area where the decal will be applied on the model . We will have to slide and position the decal based on this water layer created on the model , else will stick for ever at the point it first stuck
dip them in lukewarm water but no more than 20-30 seconds - Tango Papa decal paper is really strong and of good quality but detaches very , very fast its film
Use tweezers to get the decal outside the water !
Use your finger to drag one side of the decal film and slide it away from the background paper
Use the tweezers for sliding / draging the decal to the exact position it should be
Thesedecals stick usually very well after 2-3 minutes only . With critical decalsthat may be destroyed on application I always produce more than one using simplecopy + paste in PSP5
See belowthe model of the MD-90 (scale 1/200) with the Viking decals and the SE-AJNregistration (near the rear door) . By the way the cockpit window decals herecame from another kit but you can easily make them too from the instructionsleaf
model of the MD-90 (scale 1/200) with the Viking decals
For areaswhere the decals follow a curved surface we may use lengths by applying aflexible measuring tape to find the exact length that does not show from the 2Dview profile . For example on this B737-500 model (scale 1/144) below where theprofile indicates a nose-to-tail distance to be 20,8 cm , the actual curveddistance is 21,5 cm. This is the one we'll use actually for our decal in the A4decal page. This is necessary if we design long fuselage lines or decalspositioned on important curvatures on a model
On-Line Tutorial for the PSP5can be found here :
http://images.google.lu/imgres?imgurl=http://www.woodmann.com/crackz/Images/psp5nag.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.woodmann.com/crackz/Tutorials/Psp5sc.htm&h=296&w=388&sz=34&hl=de&start=1&um=1&usg=__4wBvHQNkYmazX5D5fHfCY0-380g=&tbnid=idnh58bcBYCqYM:&tbnh=94&tbnw=123&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dget%2BPSP%2B5%26um%3D1%26hl%3Dde%26sa%3DG
and here :
http://images.google.lu/imgres?imgurl=http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Platform/6606/basic1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Platform/6606/basics.html&h=407&w=596&sz=23&hl=de&start=18&um=1&usg=__vcaatteDZuipBLz_4NBf0_Z_k9w=&tbnid=l_HgsF3r1OT_TM:&tbnh=92&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dget%2BPaint%2BShop%2BPro%2B5%26um%3D1%26hl%3Dde%26sa%3DXSee here acollection of models made by my own decals using the above method
My own decalswere produced either to create non-existing decals on the market or for
existing onesbut on different model scales non available or very hard to find
The decals for Sq Ldr J.Plagis IX 5J-K 'Muscat' are now available on the market by ICM's model kit in 1/48 , but mine have been produced 2 years earlier ! | This is a 1/72 model for the Fiat CR-32 fought in the Spanish civil war carrying the serial number 3-61 for the francist ace Salas . In almost all similar models the 3-51 of Morato is depicted only |
A I-152 of the Republican of the Spanish civil war with Mickey on its tail. This decal I made using many of the Mickey's existing clips | This is a SAS DC-10 in the special Revell scale 1/320. The decals I made were based on a resizing of the ones used used in the Airfix kit for the scale 1/144 |
This Italian Fiat CR-42 was the typical fighter that took part in the invasion to Greece in 1940. I created the unique number of 357-12 from war pictures of those days | Greek Gladiators were 'freshly' provided from the N. African RAF squadrons in the early days of the Greek-Italian war in 1940. The first ones flew under the desert camouflage. The very first had the serial number Δ196. |
A decal depicting the 'Sleeping Beauty' on a B-17 kit in 1/48. This decal I created from existing pictures of nose-arts | A typical Spanish version of a modified Me109 used in the film 'Battle of Britain'. I created the particular emblem of the eagle exactly as used in the film although it never existed historically |
A unique set of decals for the greek AEGEAN air carrier for this BA46 in 1/144 (Revell) - not available on the market anywhere | Rare decals for this B737-800 for EUROCYPRIA. I used the logos on the website of the company. The scale is rare too : 1/200 - from the Hasegawa kit |
These are the very extra decals of an early Greek squadron Hurricane that fought under RAF in N.Africa. The FG-Σ The FG probably stands for Free Greeks (?) and the Σ is obviously a purely greek identifier for this plane totally unusual for RAF planes (scale 1/72) | This is a most special decal for a Spit V of the greek squadrons returning to the freed homeland The idea came from an old picture of those days . The plane carries the RHAF logo under the cockpit and the sign referring to the anniversary of the 28th Oct 1940 of OXI against the Italian proposal for surrender (Revell kit scale 1/32) |
A very familiar plane in the Greek tourist skies this Britannia B7373-200. The decals are however made for the very special scale of 1/125 of Heller. | An old and almost forgotten french charter company of the 70s using old Caravelles SA-210 for this Airfix kit Super-size your blob to attack larger and stronger enemies. Join the Color Revolutionaries to refine your skills while making a mess. The race to rescue Chroma City has just begun, and only de Blob can save the world from a black-and-white future. De Blob is a 3D platformer where players maneuver their hero, de Blob. Blob's origins are mysterious, but he rolled up at the right place and the right time to be the hero that the Color Underground was looking for. Music surrounds him and color energy flows through him; with his touch Blob can literally make the world a better place. Blob represents individualityand determination. Blob is good hearted but lazy. He is often late, but he always comes through. De Blob is a 3D platformer where players maneuver their hero, de Blob. Equal parts amorphous blob of paint, struggling artist, revolutionary and juvenile delinquent, de Blob's goal is to replace the drab, lifeless gray coloring that the I.N.K.T. Corporation has imposed on Chroma City and its inhabitants, the Raydians, with a range of vibrant. https://sweetbluck.weebly.com/home/download-original-de-blob-mac. Blob Game 1.0 for Mac can be downloaded from our software library for free. The actual developer of this free Mac application is Purdue University Team. The most frequent installer filenames for the application include: blobgame.dmg and Blob%20Game.dmg etc. in 1/144 scale. |
These decals do exist on the market but it was very easy to make my own for this B737-200 of the British Airtours - Revell scale 1/200 |
Here are some of my models madewith my own decals , almost all of them unique in the world !
| This is the second F9F in the film 'Bridges of Toko-Ri' flown by Cmdr Lee , the PP (Photographer Plane) 21 thrown into obscurity by modelers as everybody was focusing on the star's W. Holden one (the 209) . Observe the camera openings on the nose before the number 21. The dragon emblem of VF-192 comes out from a snapshot of the movie itself. The kit comes from the latest Revell ( ex-Matchbox kit) in 1/72. No such decals exist for this model and scale on the market | This is a F2F Buffalo of the Marines in 1941 (Special Hobby kit 1/48). The only one with 2 victories against Jap flying boats during the battle of the Wake island. Only the serial numbers and the victories come from my decals |
| This is an A320 of the Condor-Thomas Cook European charter. The golden heart near the 'C' of the Condor name on the fuselage is a reminder of the company's 50th anniversary The model exists with Revell in 1/144 but under the Thomas-Cook decals only in blue-white liveries | This American ATLAS AIR B747-200 cargo liner visits very often Luxembourg executing orders for Cargolux and Quantas . See the company symbol on the tail. It comes directly out of the company's logo found on the internet . The kit is from the special 1/320 Revell scale hosting only the B747-200 and DC-10 models. No such decals exist for this model and scale on the market |
| The first Greek jet airliner of Olympic a Comet DH-6 , was leased from BEA and carries the british registration G-ARLJK. The symbol of BEA appears near the front door . No such decals exist for this model and scale on the market | This is a notoriously famous Trident of BEA , lost in the Zagreb air collision, the G-AWZT. The kit is from the Airfix series 1/144. The decals do exist on the market but I did produce the registration ones, that are not available |
This Luxair B737-200 was the old standard flight between Luxembourg and Athens until the early 90s. The model is from the Revell scale 1/200. No such decals exist for this model and scale on the market Note : This Revell model is unique for this scale and stays around for quite some time now without interruption for 20 years. Although not exact in dimensions it allows , however , modelers to produce many different company models for this airliner thanks to its very small size and very low price ( at/below 5 euros ) demanding very small amounts of paint decal paper and ink | This is a typical B737-200 of SABENA in the 80s. The model is from the Revell scale 1/200. These old markings decals exist on the market for this model and scale but I produced my own following the details from the archive of Airliners.net Note : This Revell model is unique for this scale and stays around for quite some time now without interruption for 20 years. Although not exact in dimensions it allows , however , modelers to produce many different company models for this airliner thanks to its very small size and very low price ( at/below 5 euros ) demanding very small amounts of paint decal paper and ink |
A Piper Cub 18 of the Atenhs Aeroclub (Revell kit 1/32) . No such decals exist for this model and scale on the market | A Fiat G50bis (Special Hobby kit 1/48) that took part in the aggression against Greece from Albania in 1940 , number 2-395 . Decals derived from the Osprey book for the Italian Aces. No such decals exist for this model and scale on the market |
I'm particularly proud for this unique decals. It depicts a B737-400 of the Olympic Airways SX-BKC 'Apollon') painted on the occasion of the Athens Olympics in 2004. The rear part decals consist of a whole sheet decal painted with all its details and applied as a whole sheet for each side made from white background decal paper. The rest of the fuselage decals are also made up of whole decal sheets but this time printed on blank decal paper since the background color of the model is white. The designs of the athlete figures come from the official site of the Olympic Games. The kit comes from the scale 1/144 of Minicraft B737-400 kit. Needless to say that no such decals exist at all for this model on the market |
This is really a special decal set. Although the 1/144 Tristar kit exists with Revell and Airfix , the Saudia Airlines decals can be rarely found especially with the liveries of the 80s. Initially I bought them from a private guy in US but as some 10 years later the decals have been withering and partially destroyed, I had to produce new ones for the tail . I am not sure if one can find these decals any longer - besides , Saudia has totally changed the liveries ever since. |
One of the first RYANAIR (famous low-cost airline) planes , a conventional B737-200 that succeeded the BAC 1-11 in its original fleet. Painted with the company's old-scheme used to fly in those days from Charleroi to UK . The model depicts the EI-ACN 'City of Kork' . Today Ryanair uses mostly the B737-800 with new liveries. These decals do exist on the market but I did produce my own ones. The logo of the City of Kork comes from the website of this city on the internet , as well as the decals for Ryanair have been developed from the logos found in their flight-booking website Note : From the Revell kit 1/200 |